Last Sunday evening, 30 May 2010, we were at Albert Salgado Paloma’s Rory Cameron-Lady Kenmare-“La Fiorentina”-“Le Clos Fiorentina”-overlooking-the-French-Riviera like house [ think white, white, white halls of noble proportions with classical antique Filipino furniture and genuine French antiques effortlessly put together with Albert’s tremendous, inimitable style and chic ] in San Fernando, Pampanga for his annual reception celebrating the town [ now city ] fiesta in honor of “San Fernando, El Rey.”
The big draw of an Albert Salgado Paloma invitation for me is to relive the lunches and dinners of the Old Pampanga I remember from my childhood and youth: the delicious and luxurious Spanish and French-inflected Capampangan food cooked at home, presented on large antique porcelain, ironstone, and silver platters and laid on beautiful antique hardwood tables; an assortment of fine wines; the many tables elegantly set with china, crystal, and silver on linen damask; and the genial company who knew one another, whose parents knew one another, and whose grandparents and great grandparents knew one another as well. I’m sure it was a similar draw for many of the other regular guests.
Dinner was a grand concourse comparable to the five star hotel buffets: Italian gnocchi, tagliatelle, and penne in various sauces, A large Lapu-lapu fish as “Pescado en Mayonesa,” Dory filets with capers and butter sauce, “Relleno de Pollo,” Roast Turkey with all the trimmings including glazed yams, “Caldereta de Cordero [ lamb ]” braised in French red wine, Angus Beef carvery, Albert’s famous long-simmered “Fabada Asturiana,” Smithfield Virginia ham, young “Lechon,” fresh asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli, Mixed Greens salad with unusual dressings. Steamed Japanese rice for those who wanted some.
For desserts, there were fresh fruits and many cakes and pies from Manila’s most fashionable pastry shops. There was also a delicious “buco” sorbet, tinged with pandan and exquisitely laced with “dayap” lime rind.
Later in the evening, when most of the older guests had left, Albert and I finally got around to talking, and as always, he was a vivid window to a vanished world, to a Pampanga long gone, even if he was already of the PostWar generation…
“Albert, how did one spell Benito Ullmann? One l, two ls? One n, two ns?” I asked.
[ Benito Ullmann was the part-German first husband of Albert’s grandaunt, the very rich businesswoman Teodora Salgado y Basilio. After his death, she married a full Spaniard, Dr. Saa, who was, of all things, a magician. She had no children though, thus she partitioned her many holdings between her several Salgado nephews and nieces. ]
“Ullmann… two ls and two ns.”
“Benito Ullmann was in the luxury imports business. Was he a part-owner of ‘La Estrella del Norte’ or did he have his own firm?”
“I don’t know about his involvement with ‘La Estrella del Norte’ but he had his own firm.”
“I remember your telling me years ago that the famous Arnedo Paris porcelain dinner service was ordered through Benito Ullmann’s firm… Therefore, the Grand Duke [ Alexis Alexandrovich of Russia ] must have ordered it immediately from Benito Ullmann after his visit to the Arnedos in Sulipan in 1891…”
“Yes it was. It was Tirso Ballesteros and his mother Joaquina Arnedo-Ballesteros who told us. They were there when we visited the Arnedo house in Sulipan… a long time ago?” he confirmed.
Albert continued: “Those plates were displayed in two “vajilleras” glass-fronted cabinets in the “comedor” dining room. Tirso and his mother Joaquina told us that the majority were actually in a storage room. They were beautiful! Where are they now?”
“With me. Most of them anyway. Some are displayed at the ‘Museo de La Salle’ in Dasmarinas, Cavite.”
“Good.”
“I didn’t know Tito Ocampo was from Mexico town. I thought the Ocampos were from San Fernando…”
“Tito’s father was an Ocampo from Santa Rita. His mother was a Paras from Mexico. That’s why he has that property there.”
“Interesting to note how old Dr. Sandico [ Mayorico Hizon Sandico ] and Imang Jane [ Jane Lazatin Garcia ] married off all their children to equally old Capampangan families. I remember Dr. Sandico very well, he was a perfect gentleman… to the hilt. He was also quite emphatic about people of good family: ‘galing sa mabuting pamilya,’ he used to say.”
“Yes, they’re of very good family. Their Hizon ancestors were painted by Simon Flores. You’ve seen them?”
“Yes, Saturnino Hizon y David and his third wife Cornelia Sison. It turned out that Saturnino Hizon was actually the direct, maternal grandfather of Dr. Sandico. His mother Pilar Sison Hizon-Sandico was a daughter of Saturnino and Cornelia. I remember the Saturnino portrait very well because he was buck-teethed. They were already given to the children. Then they were restored by Helmuth Zotter, the Austrian. Very expensive!”
“There used to be a big Simon Flores painting right across from this house when I was young. A family portrait with several people. Lindy Locsin [ Architect Leandro V. Locsin ] bought it.”
“Which family was it?”
“Quia-son.”
“Oh, if Lindy bought it then it’s the one with the mother-in-law. There were three Quiason family portraits — the three were brothers — that hung in San Fernando before the war. Another one, with just four figures [ Cirilo and Ceferina Quiason and their family ], is in the Central Bank Collection. Another one is really dark, in the Central Bank too if I’m not mistaken. I’m a Quiason by descent, through my mother, by the way. The baby in the Central Bank portrait, the one whose pee-pee was burned off by his own cigar, was my mother’s maternal grandfather { Jose “Yayang” Quiason y Henson }.” I related.
Albert countered: “Lindy also bought three portraits by Simon Flores from the Cunanan ancestral house in Mexico town. The very old, probably 1780s, thatch-roofed house that used to stand on the site of the Methodist church now, right beside the old town church. The parents of Mariano Cunanan and another one.”
“By the time I saw the house in the 1950s, the Cunanans had already become Methodists. I guess that’s why the Methodist church now stands on the site of their ancestral home.”
“The Quiason are descended from the Cunanan: Cirilo Quiason y Cunanan. His mother was Maria Cunanan and his father was Modesto Quiason.” [ FYI: Our Cunanan is NOT related to Andrew Philip Cunanan, the assassin of Gianni Versace in Miami. 😛 ]
He added: “Lindy had the big Quiason portrait and the three solo Cunanan portraits restored by no less than the principal restorers of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.”
“Do you think Lindy would have bothered to record the names of those three Cunanan portraits by Simon Flores?” I asked.
“Knowing Lindy, yes, he would have.”
Albert recalled further: “That Cunanan house had the most beautiful segmented “cabecera” dining table I ever saw: Neoclassical, with tapering Sheraton legs, and discreet bone and kamagong inlay. Their sideboards in the “comedor” dining room were a pair of longer and bigger than usual Sheraton-type altar tables, tapering legs, restrained bone and kamagong inlay, and all. Beautiful!!!”
“My only ‘recuerdo’ of that Cunanan house is the smallish grooved marble top table from the ‘sala.’ Without knowing its provenance, I bought it, along with many other first rate antiques, for a small fortune in 1997 from Rene Dizon who had acquired it, together with the late ‘agente’ Mamerto “Mamer” Ocampo, from the family in 1972 in exchange for a new color TV. Rene didn’t even know it was the Cunanan house, all he remembered was that it was the old, long, thatch-roofed house beside the Mexico church. Then I learned that the old, thatch-roofed house used for ‘Filosofo Tasio’ in director Gerry de Leon’s classic 1961 ‘Noli Me Tangere’ was the Cunanan house in Mexico, Pampanga. Years later, you told me that the Cunanan house had beautiful old things and it was right beside the Mexico church where the Methodist church stands now. So you see, after all those years, all the bits and pieces of information finally jived. I guess that buying that grooved marble top table from Rene was sheer serendipity, as always.”
“Good.”
“I wouldn’t be surprised if the Cunanan family had those silver “paliteras” toothpick trees…”
“Sonny Tinio remembers being told long ago by Hizon [ de Mexico ] descendants that the old house had twelve of them and that they were distributed to the children…”
“Very believable.”
“Te Hizon still had two of them before his beautiful San Fernando house was damaged by lahar.”
“Yes.”
*unfinished*
remembrance of things awry 